“Kabhi kabhi safar sirf nayi jagah dekhne ka nahi hota…
kabhi woh safar hota hai ek zakhm mehsoos karne ka,
jo na kabhi bharta hai, na bhoolta hai.”
Subah thi… par dil mein ek ajeeb si bhari si khamoshi.
Raat ko Amritsar pahuncha tha main, Adil aur Anas ke saath.
Aur agli subah, 13 April 1919 ki kahani ko chhune nikal pade —
Jallianwala Bagh.
🚶♂️ Jab Kadam Dheere Chalne Lage
Entrance se guzarte hi…
kuchh alag tha uss jagah ki mitti mein.
Kadam apne aap dheere ho gaye,
jaise har inch zameen kisi ke lahu se bhari ho.
Bheed thi, lekin ek sannaata bhi tha.
Logo ke chehre par muskaan nahi, soch thi.
Aur aankhon mein sirf ek sawal —
“Aakhir uss din ki Shaam kaisi guzri hogi?”
🔫 Woh Deewar, Woh Goliyaan, Aur Woh Zakhm
Ek kone mein woh deewar dikhi —
jahaan bullet marks ab bhi zinda the.
Na plaster ne dhaka,
na samay ne mitaya…
Ek line likhi thi:
“Here fell martyrs of April 13, 1919.”
Aur us deewar ko dekh kar…
na jaane kyun hum teenon ne kuch nahi bola.
Sirf dekha… aur mehsoos kiya.
🕳️ Woh Narrow Gali Jahan Se General Dyer Aaya Tha
Ek patli si gali…
jahaan se General Dyer ne ghus ke
apne 90 se zyada sainikon ke sath
1,650 rounds chalaye the — bina kisi warning ke.
Woh entry gate dekh kar laga —
“Kaise kisi ne itni chhoti si jagah mein itni badi barbarta kar di?”
Wahan ek elderly guard khada tha,
usne kaha:
“Beta, yeh sirf bagh nahi… yeh shaheedon ki arzi hai.”
🕳️ Woh Kuan Jahan Logon Ne Kud Kar Apni Jaan Bachai Thi
Ek aur jagah ruk gaye hum —
Shaheedi Kuan.
Us kuan ke andar jhank kar dekha…
to andhera nahi tha,
ek kahani thi —
un logon ki jo goli se bachne ke liye kuan mein kud gaye the…
par maut unka bhi intezaar kar rahi thi.
Adil ne dheere se bola:
“Soch yaar, zinda rehne ke liye marna pada hoga.”
Anas chup tha…
shayad uske bhi shabd khatm ho gaye the.
📖 Ek Diary, Ek Gallery, Ek Tareekh
Wahan ek museum tha —
jahan tippaniyaan thi, aankh-dekhi, akhbaar ki reports…
Aur ek page par likha tha:
“Unhone goli chhodi… humne azadi.”
Humne gallery dekhi…
aur bahar nikalte waqt,
koi tourist nahi lag rahe the.
Hum… ek bharatiya lag rahe the
jo apne dil mein ek naye josh aur ek purana dard le kar jaa rahe the.
💭 Jallianwala Bagh Ne Kya Sikhaaya?
- Ye trip sirf dekhne ka nahi tha…
yeh mehsoos karne ka tha. - Humne sirf photo nahi li…
andar kuch chhod aaye aur kuch le aaye. - Aur sabse bada sabak —
Azadi free nahi milti. Har goli ke peechhe ek kurbani hoti hai.
“Jallianwala ek yaad nahi…
ek ehsaas hai.
Jise mehsoos karna har us insaan ke liye zaroori hai
jo azaadi ki keemat samajhna chahta hai.”
Afjal ki taraf se yahi kehna hai:
“Agar kabhi Amritsar jaao…
to sirf kulche aur Golden Temple ke liye mat jaana…
Jallianwala zarur jaana.
Kyunki yeh ek jagah nahi…
yeh India ke dil ka ek dard bhara kona hai.”